Thursday, 28th May 2009

And? Did you enjoy it? - A talk with a restaurant tester

Matthias Supé is an independent journalist and restaurant tester for “DelikatEssen”, a restaurant guide for the area of Munich.
So it is understandable that it is a must for “Table Talks” to organize an interview with him to present all the questions which are of interest to all of us.

Table Talks:
Matthias, you are a restaurant tester. That sounds quite interesting but let us know, why did you choose this profession and how did you get your job? 

Matthias Supé:
I am an independent journalist who enjoys eating and cooking. So it was only a question of time to combine both of it. To get the job was quite easy – I just applied for it and was lucky.

Table Talks:
And who is now your employer?

Matthias Supé:
There is a magazine in Munich called “DelikatEssen”. This magazine is issued once a year. When I applied I told them I like to eat, I do understand something around this subject and I am a professional writer – do you need such a guy?

Table Talks:
In which period do you test the restaurants and how many? Do you follow any fixed program like for example every tester has to test four restaurants each month?

Matthias Supé:
No, we are testing each spring time. A bulk of tester are swarming, testing and writing for weeks and in June the magazine will be issued. Who of us tests how many restaurants depends on intention and time. For example, for the last issue I produced twelve contributions.

Table Talks:
Who decides which restaurant has to be tested?

Matthias Supé:
The decision will be made by the editor in charge of “DelikatEssen”, Mr. Jossi Loibl.

Table Talks:
I think everybody is of the opinion that this is a dream job. What do you think?

Matthias Supé:
Yes, you are right. Very positive is that I am working not every day but only for some weeks a year. And I would prefer not to use the word job as it is more like a hobby. If I had to do it permanently I am sure it will get boring.

Table Talks:
If you go for a test are you single or in company?

Matthias Supé:
Normally I am accompanied by somebody. Only in this constellation I am able to order more different dishes.

Table Talks:
Is it up to you what you are deciding to test or is it given to you?

Matthias Supé:
Yes, it’s up to me, but, of course, I have to follow certain criteria. Like: are there any specialities or special offers on the menu which are being worthwhile to get tested?
With my review I try to characterise the tested restaurant. Of course, I would not order in a Bavarian restaurant a farmer salad from Greece.

Table Talks:
Which criteria have to be watched while testing a restaurant?

Matthias Supé:
If you talk about dishes there are many details to be taken in account, like quality, taste, preparation and presentation and many things more. Is there any special regard from the kitchen? How is the wine card assorted? Is there any menu available or do the waiter offer the dishes verbally, etc.? Service and ambience are taken into account, too, as well as the ratio between price and service. All taken together will present the overall picture of the tested restaurant.

Table Talks:
The testers have to be absolutely objective!
Do they have any problems to be objective if they are very fond of Italian cuisine and have to test an Italian restaurant or another example, if they are vegetarian and they have to test a steak house?

Matthias Supé:
As a vegetarian I would not test a steak house.
I think it is not really very useful to do something what you do not like.
But I am of the opinion that it makes sense to test an Italian restaurant if you do like this kind of food and if you are a specialist in that respect. If you know all the variations it´s easy to compare.

Table Talks:
By the way – what does a restaurant tester earn?

Matthias Supé:
This job does not generate my main income.
It is just some kind of sideline and hobby which should only cover the expenses.

Table Talks:
Have you ever been recognised as a tester while doing your job in a restaurant?

Matthias Supé:
No, my behaviour and attitude are like a normal guest. And this is very important as the restaurants should never know that they were selected for a test. Otherwise the test would not be really believable.

Table Talks:
Have you ever written a negative test about the quality of a restaurant? If yes, let us know the reasons for that?

Matthias Supé:
No, till now it never occurred. We understand our magazine “DelikatEssen” as a kind of guide book in respect of cuisine. Our intention is to show the people where to go and not the other way round.

Table Talks:
Since working as a restaurant tester has your stance changed while visiting a restaurant privately? Are you able to differentiate between business and private?

Matthias Supé:
My stance has not changed a lot but on the other side I am certainly influenced by my profession. Suddenly I see things which I would have not recognized before the training and experiences I made. Sometimes I discover that I am searching for words or names to determine a dish which I ordered. You see I am not absolutely free and independent from my profession.

Table Talks:
How is the feed back from the reader of the magazine? What is your opinion, have the quantity of people increased by informing themselves about the quality of a restaurant before their visit?

Matthias Supé:
“DelikatEssen” has existed for twelve years now and it is very well incorporated in the gastronomy of Munich and is with its 30 000 copies since long time stable. I think that shows that we are on the right track and have a regular amount of customers which are taking hints and advice from this magazine.

Table Talks:
Is there any story which you like to remember with some kind of joy?

Matthias Supé:
I do not remember special stories but more special experiences which I made with special food offered to me. In the “Wirtshaus zu Ansbach”, for example, they served a Apfelstrudel-Dessert with vanilla ice cream and some drops of pumpkin seed oil.
This taste was so tremendously extraordinary that I still like to remember that experience very well.

Table Talks:
 Thank you very much for the interview, Matthias!

***

Talking about food stimulates the appetite. Time to present a new recipe: King Prawns on Avocado Cream!

Ingredients for one baguette (about 4 persons):

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 200°C.
2. Blanch King Prawns. Then drain them and put them into a casserole dish, add olive oil and chili peppers and push it into the oven.
3. Peel avocado and cut into pieces. Chop chili peppers, cloves of garlic, marjoram and shallots. Squeeze the lemon. Puree sour cream, avocado, garlic and chili peppers. Then season to taste with salt, olive oil, marjoram and lemon juice.
4. Cut baguette into slices and apply it with avocado cream. Decorate each slice of baguette with one or two King Prawns.